📄 This guide will take you through the 3 weeks I spent solo travelling in Japan in the fall of 2023, including Tokyo, Shirakawa-go, the Nakasendo Trail, Kyoto, Osaka, and Hiroshima. I've included attractions, experiences, cafes, restaurants, and my accommodations. The associated videos can also be found on my YouTube channel!
Tokyo
I started my trip in the megacity of Tokyo, landing at Narita airport and taking the Narita express to Tokyo station. I chose to stay in the Akasaka neighbourhood (not Asakusa - people get them confused!) as Reddit had indicated that it was a bit less touristy but still incredibly convenient for the metro lines. And Reddit was right, this was a great base to explore from! I stayed for a total of 6 nights in Tokyo before heading to my next stop.
A popular shopping street in Harajuku. Very touristy!
Shinto shrine dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken.
Beautiful large city park.
Buddhist temple in the Asakusa neighbourhood.
Street stall in Asakusa selling chicken karaage. The pieces are big and juicy!
Largest art museum in Japan
If you're craving some Neapolitan pizza - it's really good!
Market for fresh seafood and produce. Start your day there by getting kaisendon for breakfast. Gets busy fast so go early!
Luxury department store in Ginza, but if you're not into that, they have a very nice rooftop garden.
A nice area to walk around and not as crowded. The train here is also pretty cool as it travels overground, providing views of the surrounding waters
Okuhida
After leaving Tokyo, I took two trains and two buses to get to the Okuhida region, known for its hot springs. I only stayed a night here.
This ryokan is unique in that it has private onsens, if you're not comfortable with the public baths. The onsens are beautiful, and I found that it wasn't as expensive as other ryokans. The food provided was not at the level of other guesthouses that I stayed at but the rest of the experience here more than made up for it.
Shirakawa-gō
Shirakawa-gō is a small traditional village and UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its thatched-roof houses. I'd highly recommend staying overnight by booking one of the guesthouses in the village but you'll need to book early (at least 3 months in advance)! I used this website to find stays: https://shirakawa-go.gr.jp/en/. (I stayed in Furusato, if you're wondering)
Try hida beef here, a regional specialty.
”Kyoshu” Traditional Coffee Shop
Really cute coffee shop with a great view. Also features tatami seating.
Ogimachi Castle Observation Deck
Take a short hike up here to see the village from above.
The Nakasendo Trail
After departing from Shirakawa-go, I took a bus to Nagoya, then a train to Nagiso station. From there, another bus to the ryokan in Tsumago. The Nakasendo trail is a historic route connecting Kyoto and Edo (now Tokyo), and the segment between the historic post towns of Tsumago and Magome is now a popular and well maintained trail to hike. It's recommended to stay a night in each town.
TIP: You can rent bear bells at the tourist centre in either town (whether or not they work is another question, but you might as well). Don't forget to also go to the tourist centre afterwards to get a little certificate for completing the trail!
Ryokan right outside Tsumago. I couldn't find any available places within Tsumago but this place was actually super nice! Food was delicious as well.
Good Day Coffee & Bar (Kojitsu Coffee)
The affogato here was really good
Kaiseki restaurant with private rooms. The price is quite reasonable. You can ask your guesthouse to help you make a reservation here.
Very trendy American-inspired coffeeshop in Magome. I overhead the barista talking about having lived in the US for a period of time.
Kyoto
From Magome I took a local bus to Nakatsugawa station, then a train to Nagoya station, and finally a shinkansen to Kyoto. Japan's ancient capital is packed with historic temples to experience. I stayed here for 3 nights
Travelodge Kyoto Shijo Kawaramachi [トラベロッジ京都四条河原町]
Very convenient place to stay in Kyoto!
Very famous bamboo forest. Also very touristy so go very early!
Arashiyama Monkey Park Iwatayama
Japanese macaques roam free in this park. You can feed them from inside a building.
Small unassuming Japanese curry shop. I had the pork katsu curry with leek - so delicious!
Zen temple known for its famous rock garden.
Zen Buddhist temple covered in gold leaf.
Buddhist temple known for its wooden stage that projects from the hall.
Sohonke Nishin-Soba Matsuba
Nishiba soba is a local specialty
Tiny homey cafe with a very friendly owner.
Famous Shinto shrine known for its red gates.
Hiroshima and Miyajima Island
Hiroshima is most known for the atomic bomb dropped by the the US Army Air Forces in 1945, so some of its main sights are related to this important piece of history. However, there are also other things to see and do here. I stayed in Hiroshima for one night.
Miyajima Island is only a short 10 minute ferry ride from Hiroshima and is great for a half day trip. Wild deer roam freely around the island.
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum
Museum dedicated to the atomic bomb explosion of 1945 and its devastating consequences.
This building was the only structure left standing after the atomic bombing of the city.
Multilevel complex of okonomiyaki stalls. Note that not all stalls serve tourists and some require reservations.
Shinto shrine on Miyajima island known for its "floating" torii gate when the tide is in.
Cable cars that take you to the top of Mount Misen on Miyajima island.
Miyajima Omotesandō Shopping Street
Shopping street with snacks and souvenirs on Miyajima island.
Osaka
Another major city in Japan, Osaka is known for its food and nightlife. It's located close to Kyoto so many people often visit the two together. I stayed here for 2 nights.
Probably one of the older hotels that I stayed in during my Japan trip but still very clean. Perks include its excellent location right in Dotonbori and the free ice cream, noodles, and alcohol.
Market selling seafood, meat, produce, snacks and other goods.
Large aquarium that features whale sharks. Book your tickets online ahead of time.
A retro neighbourhood created in 1912 but abandoned post-war.
Koysasan
Before returning to Tokyo, I stayed a night on mount Koya (Koyasan), a Buddhist temple town. You can book a stay in one of the temples, have a vegetarian Buddhist dinner, and observe the monk's prayers in the morning.
I booked my temple stay through here: https://eng-shukubo.net/
Atmospheric cemetery to walk through, as recommended by the monk at the temple I stayed at.
Back to Tokyo
Observation deck with 360 views of the city and also a view of Shibuya scramble crossing. Best time to visit is before sunset so you can catch daytime, sunset, and nighttime views. Note there are long lineups for photos.
Book in advance to get the best timeslot!